There is a long-running and popular reality cooking show starring chef Gordon Ramsay that first aired on Fox on May 30, 2005 called "Hell's Kitchen". Chef Ramsay is notoriously abrasive and demands perfection on the show, often yelling profanity at the contestants. There's no doubt that his famous temper is used for entertainment value, and there are some reports that he is much nicer in private. However, there's likely at least some truth on how he acts, and many in the culinary industry claim that his behavior is more often the norm than the exception, labeling it part and parcel of the "kitchen culture".
As I recently learned, the "kitchen culture" is actually part of the overall design of something known as the "kitchen brigade" (or "brigade de cuisine"), a system of organizing the kitchen staff and operations in order to maximize efficiency. The system was first designed by the French chef and restaurateur Auguste Escoffier in the early 20th century. It's a hierarchical and highly structured system that assigns specific roles to specialized staff in order to reduce chaos, ensure consistent quality, and allow for smooth operations, particularly when the restaurant is very busy. There is a clearly defined chain of command, in which the executive chef ("Chef de cuisine") is responsible for the overall management of the kitchen. The executive chef is responsible for creating the menu and new recipes (often with the assistance and/or approval of the restaurant manager), purchasing raw food items, training apprentices, supervising the rest of the kitchen staff, and maintaining a clean, sanitary, hygienic environment. The "Sous Chef" is the second in command and receives orders directly from the executive chef, while all the remaining roles follow.
The executive chef serves as the "captain of the ship", and his or her orders are not to be questioned. On most ships, the captain is ultimately responsible for everything that occurs on the ship, good or bad. There was once a tradition of the captain "going down with the ship" in battle. It's become a metaphor for any rigid, hierarchical system in which commands are issued from the top and meant to be followed without question. When I was a medical student, the "captain of the ship" mentality was prevalent on most clinical teams, but particularly in the operating room, where the attending surgeon was deemed the "captain of the ship" (the "ship" being the operating room). There was even a legal doctrine in the United States called "captain of the ship" doctrine, in which the attending surgeon was responsible - and legally liable - for every action of every other member on the operating team. Thankfully, those days are long past. Neither the legal doctrine nor the mentality of the attending physician as the "captain of the ship" is common today. Those of us in health care have learned that a highly functioning team in which each and every member contributes and feels free to speak up ("psychological safety") is more engaging, more collaborative, and most importantly, leads to better outcomes.
So, it naturally begs the question that if surgical teams have figured out that a less hierarchical, rigid chain of command is better for patient outcomes, why can't those in the restaurant industry adopt the same mentality? I've heard at least one chef say, "We all learned this way. If it worked for us, why can it work for the next generation?" Notably, I used to here that exact same rationale in medicine.
Unfortunately, it's not just a "captain of the ship" mentality that is the problem. The "kitchen culture" is downright toxic. The New York Times recently featured a number of articles detailing the allegations of physical and mental abuse by Executive Chef Rene Redzepi at the world famous restaurant Noma in Copenhagen, Denmark. The first article appeared on March 7th (see "Punching, Slamming, Screaming: A Chef's Past Abuse Haunts Noma, the World's Top-Rated Restaurant"). Just a few days later, the New York Times reported that Rene Redzepi had resigned after 23 years at the restaurant.
The toxic "kitchen culture" is not unique to Noma or to the fictional kitchen depicted in the television show, "The Bear". Robin Burrow, a former lecturer in management and organizational behavior at Cardiff University in the United Kingdom has studied the toxic "kitchen culture" (see "Yes, Chef: Life at the vanguard of culinary excellence" and "Bloody suffering and durability: How chefs forge embodied identities in elite kitchens") and found that bullying and physical abuse are not only common, they are normalized as part of what someone has to go through in order to become an executive chef. Burrow says, "Chefs who neglected to suffer had little claims to membership of the culinary community in the truest sense. They were not true and proper chefs."
I wonder if haute cuisine could learn a few things from health care? Better yet, it seems like the culinary community could learn some important lessons from high reliability organizations, such as the nuclear power industry, commercial aviation, or U.S. Navy aircraft carrier flight operations. The stakes in a restaurant are certainly not "life and death" as in these other industries, but the stakes are just as important. Operating a restaurant requires efficient and timely operations. It's time that they abandon the toxic "kitchen culture" and focus on high reliability organization theory!